Free Fishing Tips

Best Bait Choices

2006-09-11T21:03:00.000-07:00

Grubs: Grubs are small lures that are usually used to catch larger fish. Grubs are great for use in highland reservoirs where there is little cover for the fish. The grub is much like a bare jig head that has a soft plastic body to attach to the hook. You’ll want to use them most often in clear water conditions.
Jigs : Jigs are best used in water that is clear to murky and in water temperatures that are below 60 degrees. The jig is considered to be a “presentation” lure and the ideal way to use them is by making them look as alive as you can. The jig is essentially lead-weighted bait that has one hook. You’ll want to add a trailer to the end of the hook for the best results.
Plastic worms: If you want to catch that trophy fish you’ll probably want to use a plastic worm. This is because the plastic worm is one of the most effective lures for catching any type of big fish. Plastic worms have a thin and long profile with a lifelike action that attracts them instantly to bass. You’ll have to learn how to use a plastic worm by touch, feel, and practice. The more that you practice that better results you’ll achieve. The one thing that you need to keep in mind is that the fish needs to see the worm before it will hit it. Therefore a plastic worm is best used in clear water.
Lure color: Choose lures that are all black or all white. A mix of black and red also works quite well. There will be the odd time when fluorescent colors, such as bright yellow or green, will work well but you’ll need to experiment with this.

Reading the Water

2006-09-03T21:36:00.000-07:00

by Tom Rosenbauer

SOME WATER that is easily fished during a hatch is tough to blind-fish with consistent success. Stream reading is a vital skill for prospecting, but you should approach a day of fishing with the philosophy that not all places in a stream hold trout, and others that may hold trout cannot be blind-fished easily.

When you cast to rising fish, you know exactly where each fish is, you have a good idea what they're eating, and you stalk one fish at a time. You know the fish are willing to feed, and if your casting is accurate you know they can see your fly. On the other hand, when blind-fishing, you must constantly keep two questions in mind: Can he see my fly, and can he see me? If he sees you before he sees your fly, the fish will be spooked, and even if he doesn't bolt for cover he won't be interested in eating. You must have confidence in your ability to locate unseen fish, and you must be able to make a decent presentation to the narrow range where a suspected fish can see your fly.

A giant slow pool, like this one on the Delaware, is difficult to read and to prospect for trout in.

In general slow water is the hardest water to fish blind, for a number of reasons. Slow water is more difficult to read, because in big pools you don't have the benefit of differing currents to narrow the possibilities of where you may find a trout. In a riffle or run much of the water is too fast for a trout holding in place, and some of the water is also too shallow. Trout will be found in narrow, easily recognizable bands where fast water meets slow, deep water meets shallow, or rocks or shelves offer relief from the current. It is difficult to cover slow water without spooking the fish, because fish in slower currents get a much better look at the outside world and the food they're eating. In a riffle you can drop your line right on top of a trout without spooking him, so a thirty-foot drift will effectively cover thirty feet of water. In slow water, though, a thirty-foot drift will cover a maximum of fifteen feet, the length of the longest leader most of us can handle, and the trout lying under the fifteen feet of fly line will probably be spooked. Frankly most of us lack the patience to blind-fish slow water. The fly drifts so slowly that we lose interest and confidence in what we are doing.

You've seen fish rising in your favorite pool on another day when there was a good Sulphur hatch, so you know exactly where they are lying, right? Sorry. Those fish may be lying below the same spot you saw them rising, but in slow water, especially during a heavy hatch or spinner fall, trout often move from their normal lies into places where they can capture floating food with greater ease.

Prospecting is much easier in this kind of riffled water.

There are ways of finding trout in slow water, which we'll explore a little later in this chapter, and there are methods of fishing that work in slow water, which I'll talk about in later chapters. Vermont's Battenkill has miles of slow, deep water that I have tried to blind-fish with a nymph or dry during every month of the season, but I find myself spooking an entire pool before I can get a fish to look at my fly. Where a riffle punctuates the slow water, I'll do fine, but between the infrequent fast water I find myself relying on streamers, which can be fished independent of the current and for which trout will move from ten or even twenty feet away. On the other hand, when conditions are right in faster water, I can take trout on dries, wets, nymphs, or streamers.

So prospecting for trout relies heavily on riffles, runs, and pocket water, which is fine because in a heavily fished stream this is the water most fishermen ignore. When there are no hatches, I always start fishing at the head of a pool or run, in pocket water, or in a riffle, and then I graduate to the slower water if I can figure out what is going on. Fish in rough water are less easily disturbed, and they're also less wise to the dangers of artificial bugs. Trout fishing is supposed to be challenging, but I am quite content with the dumbest, least neurotic trout available if there is no hatch to even the odds.

It is Important to be Able to Read the River

2006-08-30T01:42:00.000-07:00

Given the fact that about 10% of the river holds about 90% of the fish, it is important to be able to “read" the river, - to find the natural favourite spots of the fish. “Classical” fishing spots for Czech nymphs are along rapids where the river goes from shallow to deep, but also recesses in shallow stretches of the river can be excellent. The Grayling is quite gregarious, so if you have caught one you will often get more at the same spot. More specifically, you can find ideal spots in relatively fast flowing water with clearly defined currents where the depth varies between half a metre down to one and a half metres. In such stretches the fish will easily find plenty of food. The surface should not be calm. A turbulent surface makes it more difficult for the fish to discover the fisher. Given the right conditions, you can actually come surprisingly close to the fish without scaring it off. For instance, last autumn I caught a one-kilo grayling in the Rena River in Eastern Norway - just one metre from where I was standing. Many people do get surprised about how close you can get to really big fish when using this technique.

I have most experience with fishing grayling from August to October. During this season it’s not unusual to experience good dry-fly fishing when conditions are right. But this isn’t always the case, and quite a few fly fishers have experienced that fishing has been bad due to high water level, cold water or too much wind. However, the Czech technique will function irrespective of the various conditions, and it can yield stunning catches when all other techniques fail. Even “hardy” dry-fly fishers should enjoy this kind of fishing as a good alternative when conditions aren’t right for dry flies.

Gear Mainenance

2006-08-24T20:36:00.000-07:00

Salt and water — keep those two things in mind if you want to keep your gear in tip-top shape. This is obvious, isn't it? If it is, then why do many anglers have maintenance issues? It's because salt and water aren't as easy to get rid of as some might think.
RodsKeeping a fly rod in good shape is about as easy as maintenance gets. Start by always storing the rod in its sock and a hard tube of some kind. After you use the rod, clean it. Wash the salt off and let the rod dry completely before putting it in the cloth bag. If you put wet, salt-coated rods in the bag, you'll eventually transfer enough salt that the bag itself can corrode the rod guides and/or reel seat.

When washing equipment, whether it's a rod, reel, pliers or whatever, a quick blast from a dockside hose may not be worthless, but it's close — likely driving as much salt into crevices as it washes off. The best method is to use warm water with a mild detergent-free soap and a washcloth, paying particular attention to rod guides and feet, the cork grip and the reel seat. On the latter, move bands and locking rings back and forth to clear any salt under them. Rinse with warm water.

I recommend that you give ferrules on graphite rods, whether the spigot or tip-over-butt type, a light coating of paraffin as well. The paraffin serves two purposes. First, it provides some lubrication and reduces wear from regular assembly and disassembly. Second, a light coating of paraffin helps prevent binding.

Occasionally, check guides for wear (grooving from line) and damage (bending, a loose or missing ring, or a broken or corroded foot), and replace if necessary.

How to collect single or loose eggs from salmon or trout.

2006-08-18T18:17:00.000-07:00

Loose or single salmon or trout eggs can be collected from large female fish during the the spawning season. If possible bleed the fish prior to collecting the eggs. The best method is to cut one or two of the gill plates. Blood in the eggs can ruin the eggs in less than an hour if not stored properly.

Step 1 : Catch a large female trout or salmon. Sometimes during the spawning season the female fish will leak eggs when picked up which makes identification easy. The abdomen of the female salmon or trout can be swelled with eggs, but once spawning actually starts and the fish deposits eggs the swelling will reduce.

Step 2 : The vent or ovum tube, located immediately in front of the anal fin, on the female trout or salmon will be extended during spawning.

Step 3 : The vent or ovum tube will often leak eggs without any pressure.

Step 4 : Place the salmon or trout on a level surface. Then place your hand, a plastic jar or bag under the vent to collect the eggs.

Step 5 : With your other hand apply gentle pressure to the abdominal cavity of the salmon or trout.

Step 6 : Collect the eggs in your container.

Step 7 : Repeatedly appply pressure to the abnominal cavity from the front of the fish toward the vent.

Step 8 : We like to collect the eggs in plastic jars, originally used for peanut butter. Plastic jars do not break like glass. Please keep glass jars away from our spawning streams and rivers.

Step 9 : Blood in the eggs can ruin the eggs in less than an hour if not stored properly. If there is excessive blood mixed with the eggs use river water to gently rinse the eggs. Drain all water. The eggs must then be kept cold.

Long-Lasting Lid

2006-08-14T01:31:00.000-07:00

By Staff

No other piece of equipment on your boat has to stand up to the rigorous demands of the cockpit like the plastic cooler. Workbench, bench seat, step ladder, footrest, cutting board - it plays all these roles and still keeps your rigged baits fresh and beer ice-cold. In recent years, cooler manufacturers have beefed up hinges and redesigned handles to the point that you can use a cooler for several seasons before having to replace it.

The only feature I've found the need to modify on my coolers is the lid keeper strap. Most stock coolers use a flat, white plastic strip that inevitably tears or cracks early on. By replacing this stock strap with a piece of heavy mono, the life of your cooler can be extended almost indefinitely. Cut a piece of 400-pound mono and crimp a nylon thimble on one end. Attach this loop to the cooler lid in place of the original strap with a stainless-steel screw. Open the lid and measure the amount of lid opening you would like while holding the tag end of the mono at the attachment point on the cooler body. Mark the line and crimp on a second thimbled loop, then attach to the body. Place a dab of silicone caulking on the threads of each screw before tightening to complete the installation.

Scott Kerrigan Wilton Manors, Florida

Back-Bouncing Live Minnows

2006-07-31T19:00:00.000-07:00

By: Craig Stillwell

This will be the first of several techniques for successful Striped Bass fishing on the Sacramento River.

First the rigging:

Rig your rod nearly the same as you would if you were going to set up to back-troll for Salmon.
Tie your line directly to a three-way swivel, then use 6-8lb leader approximately 7" long and tie it to one end of the three way swivel.
Tie a snap swivel on to the other end.
Now cut a 22-30" leader (I use 15 lb. Maxima) and tie one end to the three way swivel, and the other end tie to a minnow hook (use your own discretion on the size hook, I vary mine depending on the size minnow that I am back-bouncing).
Use a cannon ball style sinker, attached to the snap swivel. Match the size weight to the area you are back-bouncing. I generally use a 1 to 1-1/2 ounce in the slower, shallow (less than 12 feet) water, and a 2 to 3 in the deeper faster moving water.

Now the fishing:

With your boat facing upstream, come to a standstill and begin to let your line out. Once you have hit bottom, continue to let out more line, and work it back slowly.

Now you want to ease the boat backwards very slowly continually working your rod up and down allowing your presentation to move back with you. As you pump your rod, you must feel the weight bounce on the bottom every time. If you can't feel your weight hit bottom, try letting out more line very slowly. If you still can't feel bottom, then reel in line until you do.

The faster backwards that you allow your boat to go the more rapid pumps you need to make with your rod. I like to move backwards rather slowly, and therefore I would only pump my rod at 2 to three second intervals.

Moderation is the key when you are letting out line, as well as when you are reeling in line to find the bottom. I will usually leave my reel in free-spool for the first five minutes or so when I am starting a run. I just keep pressure with my thumb, and I can let out line more easily in my attempt to stay on bottom. Once I am comfortably out, I will then take my reel out of free-spool and begin bouncing.

Vary your speed according to the experience of anglers present. With beginner anglers I would suggest moving very slowly backwards, It is much easier to stay on the bottom this way. Keep in mind that anytime you pump your rod slowly up and on the way down you can't feel bottom you are either hung up with your weight, or you need to let out more line.

Do not be discouraged if it takes awhile to get the hang of it. Start in slower,shallower water to learn. Remember that the more line you have out, the harder it is to feel bottom. I have had hundreds of fish caught directly under my boat with this method. I will usually put more weight on the beginners so it is easier for them to stay in contact with the bottom.

The bite will be very distinct, sometimes during your pump, other times on the down fall, but you will have no problem interpreting the Striper bite.

www.riverbendguideservice.com.

Fishing Spinners

2006-07-27T18:08:00.000-07:00

By Phil Rabideau

Rod Selection The first prerequisite to effectively fishing spinners or spoons is to select the proper fishing rod. Stay away from the touted "fast" tip rods and go with a "moderate" action rod. Not only are moderate actions more forgiving to cast, you can make your casts far more accurately, Also, moderate action rods "give" the lure to the fish with less resistance and do not pull the lure from the fish's mouth. Expert fisherman have discovered they get far more hook ups with softer rod actions. For big water and longer casts, go with longer rods. In any case, check the manufactures specifications on the blank, which gives you the lure weight for which the rod was designed.

Reel Selection Do not skimp on the reel...all reels are not the same. You should bias yourself towards reels that utilize several ball bearings...the more the better. Good reels are not cheap, but a solid, long term investment in fishing satisfaction. Keep them clean, keep them oiled and they will last a lifetime.

Casting or Spinning Rods & Reels?
Using a spinning rod or a casting rod, is a personal choice, I use both. You can achieve more accuracy with a casting outfit, because your thumb is in control. You need to be able to adjust them for changes in lure weight, and are generally harder to master. A six foot, medium action, casting rod with a fine reel is my prescription for casting accuracy. Albeit longer rods are required for many situations.

Spinning Gear There are tricks to mastering spinning gear too. When you cast with a spinning rod, always stop the lure with your finger tip touching the spool. This does three important things: it takes the slack and twist out of the line; it puts the lure in the proper landing mode, plus it keeps those bothersome loops from forming in the spool. The worst thing you can do when using a spinning rod is cast up into the wind and stop the lure by cranking the reel. You will spend all day trying to keep the loops out of the spool.

Fighting a Fish Never crank against the drag while fighting a fish. Drags are only to let the fish run and keep the line from breaking, not to meter the pull exerted when fighting the fish. Use the bend of the rod to fight the fish not the reel. "Pump" the fish in by alternatively pulling with the rod tip then cranking the tip back towards the fish, always keep a bend in the rod.

With spinners and spoons, I use monofilament line for several reasons. First, the lines stretch aids in "giving" the lure to the fish, plus fight and land the fish without harming it. Second, rods can sometimes break with braided line, and you just do not need that to ruin a good fishing trip. Plus, monofilament gives you great flexibility in sizing the line to the circumstance. Buy your line in bulk and change it frequently.

I have seen little evidence that fish are line shy, particularly in faster moving water. I size my line depending upon the lure size, the expected size of the fish and the obstacles to be encountered in the water. I also size my line to be able to clear snags without loosing too many lures. It is important to note however that heavy lines limit the depth a given lure can effectively be fished. With ultra light tackle, and #00 or #0 lures you need four or six pound test line. For size #1 and #2 lures I usually use eight pound line to be able to clear hang ups. I use 12 pound test a lot starting at size 3 and larger because of bigger water and bigger fish. You can catch very big fish on moderate test lines depending upon your rod and reel plus your skill level.

Line Selection Once in a while salmon fishing, I will go to 17 pound test with larger lures. Once in a great while in Alaska, I will go to 30 pound test line for major fish where there are lots of obstructions with which to deal. When trolling, go to the smallest line practical as not to impede depth control.

Hooks One of the easiest ways to improve your fishing success, is to make sure all your hooks are razor sharp. Mepps uses the highest quality hooks, but they too can be dulled through time and use. The best way to sharpen hooks is with the inexpensive, Cone Hone, by Mister Twister. With a press of a button you can hone your hook points to an ultra strong, precision, conical point.

Swivels Mepps makes the World's #1 Lure, the Aglia spinner, plus other spinners and spoons of the highest quality and effectiveness. But, all that is for naught unless the spinner or spoon is tied correctly to the line. Use swivels sparingly, if ever, as they do more harm than good. Spinners are designed and balanced for optimum performance without such encumbrances. Quality spinners are not the cause of line twisting problems. Fish the spinner as described earlier, plus a quick glance at the spinner before each cast to insure it is clean. The main causes of line twist are poor casting practices and strands of bottom materials clinging around the blade's attaching clevis or the hook.

Barrel or crane swivels do not swivel effectively under tension. For trolling, where the lure is checked infrequently, it is all right to use a ball bearing swivel, but make sure it is well back from the spinner or spoon.

When I begin fishing, I may use a black, interlock wire snap to easily change spinners. However, once I have determined to proper lure, I tie directly to the spinner's eye. This precludes the snap from catching under the spinner's blade, which can happen all too frequently. On the other hand, always connect a spoon to the line with a rounded, interlock wire snap. Because a spoon wobbles sideways, we want the spoon's eye to act freely from the constraints of the line which is in tension. My favorite spoons are the Mepps Syclops for casting and Syclops Lite for trolling, and fished as prescribed are outstanding spoons.

Knots The weakest link in using terminal tackle is the knot. Poor knots account for the majority of lost fish and lures. There are only two you need to know, the Palomar and the improved clinch knot. The Palomar will never slip, but is cumbersome for tying on large lures. The improved clinch knot is an old standby, but you need to insure that you make enough turns around the standing line. The smaller the line, the more turns that are needed. When tying knots, always lubricate them with saliva before snugging them tightly and finish off by pulling the tag end firmly.

Fish Holding Areas Fish spend the majority of their time in rivers or streams on or near the bottom. This is because fish hold where there is less current to conserve energy. Also, fish hold behind rocks and logs for the same reason, plus taking up ambushing positions. Fish will move to shallow water, for example in tailouts and ripples when the food is there, but do not stay long in fast current. It is important in streams and rivers that the spinner or spoon tick to bottom frequently to insure the lure is working along the bottom. That is why casting upstream is essential for stream and river fishing. Quarter casting and allowing the spinner or spoon to tumble into the fish keeps you on the bottom too.

In large bodies of water, fish are stalking bait fish which are at specific depths. Depth control is very important in fishing to insure the lure is in proximity of the fish, and they can see the lure. Lure color and brightness are a significant factor in lure effectiveness, but is covered in detail in other Mepps' articles.* All this is to say is that you must select the right lure for the fishing conditions and operate at the right depth. Mepps makes three outstanding spinners for depth control. The classic Mepps Aglia with the famous French blade, which is designed for fishing at moderate depths. The Mepps Aglia Long, with a willow leaf type blade, which will runs deeper than the Aglia, and is necessary to get to the bottom of larger rivers. And, the Mepps XD (Extra Deep) with hole mounted blade and extra heavy brass body which is unequaled in deeper, faster waters. The Mepps Sylcops spoons are suitable for larger bodies of water, long casts or trolling. Here line weight, lure size and speed are the depth determinants.

I have fished Mepps spinners since the fifties. I do all kinds of fishing, but casting spinners and spoons is by far the most fun. Mastered properly, you can out fish anyone, yes even the fly fisherman...I do it most of the time. But it is like any other skill, it takes practice and utilizing the above tips. Like many of your fathers and grandfathers, I have been using Mepps spinners for nearly 50 years...they are the absolutely the very best.

Tackle Tips

2006-07-23T21:13:00.000-07:00

by Vic Carrao

Have you noticed every time you walk into a tackle store, your wallet becomes much lighter? You go in thinking you just need a couple lures and line, by the time you hit the cash register you're down $30.00 or more. There are so many lures that catch fish, it's hard to resist adding one more to the tackle box, and fishing line is not cheap either. In my business, if you don't learn how to shop wisely, you'll soon find yourself working just to keep the tackle box full. There are some things you can do that will save some money in the tackle store.

Lures and Hooks

Most species of fish will bite a lure or spinner. Many of my fondest memories come from casting a lure for Coho, Chinook or Steelhead. Most of the lures on the market today come complete in a package with swivel, split ring and hook. The hook is usually made from a harden metal or alloy which is great until you get snagged on a branch or log. Snagging up on the river bottom usually means the loss of that $5.00 lure. For years now I have been changing the hooks on my lures strait out of the package to a softer hook that will straiten on a snag.

Most of you are probably thinking that if the hook will straiten on a snag then it would also straiten on a fish, not true. When a lure gets snagged on a branch or log, the point of the hook is penetrated into the structure; this puts the stress on the point of the hook. When you pull hard, the hook either straitens (if it's soft) or breaks the line (if it's hard). When the hook is penetrated into a fish's mouth, the stress on the hook is not on the point but on the bend of the hook. I have never had a hook straiten when fighting a fish that was hooked cleanly in the mouth.

Changing hooks

I change the hook on my lures to an Eagle Claw or Gamigatsu Si-wash Hook. A Si- wash hook is a hook with an extra long shank and an open eye. The open eye allows you to attach the hook onto a split ring or swivel quickly with very little effort. All you need is a pair of pliers to close the eye once placed on the swivel or split ring. When you purchase your next lure, pickup a pack of Si-wash hooks, make sure you match the size of the hook on the lure to your Si-wash hooks.

Leader and lines

There are many brands of line available on the market today; my favorites are Berkley Trilene for spinning reels and Maxima Ultra Green for levelwinds. The Berkley Trilene offers a larger variety of lines for specific methods and species that is more suitable for the majority of the fishing fraternity. There are many factors that must be taken into account when putting line onto a reel; Berkley has covered them all from Berkley Sensithin for lighter applications through to Berkley Big Game for your larger game fish. Maxima make a great product for your standard levelwind applications with Ultra Green being the most popular. Both these brands are readily available at most tackle stores in your area.

Saving $$$ on line

There are 4 basic spool sizes available, leader spools - 27 yards ($4 to $5), mini packs - 110yds ($9 to $10), one shot - 220 yds ($17 to $22.00) and Bulk line purchased by the yard, 4-8 lb ($4 per hundred yds) 10-15 lb ($ 5 per hundred yds) 17 to 20 lb ($6 per hundred yds). The bulk prices above are available at Hub sports in Abbotsford.

If you take a close look at the differences between purchasing leader spools and bulk line you'll soon realize the large saving if you purchase your line by the yard. Lets take the leader spool at 27 yards for $4 to $5, which works out to approximately $12 to $15 for a hundred yards. Bulk line for 100 yards is between $4 and $6, that is over 50 % saving on just one purchase. When you purchase the larger One- Shot spools for re-spooling your reels you pay between $17.00 and $22.00 for 220 yards, most reels only hold 120 to 175 yards of line. You don't want to use the same diameter for leader as mainline so that extra 45 to 100 yds becomes waste. If you take your reels into the tackle store for re-spooling, you only pay for the line that goes on the reel. That now means on 120 to 175 yards your only paying $6 to $10, saving again over 50%.

How to buy bulk line

Save all your small, medium and large spools, take your large spools down to the nearest tackle store and have them spool the diameter of lines that you most often use for mainline, 15 to 20 lb test is what I use. When your reel is in need of new line, just re-spool your reel with your bulk line. For leaders have them spool the medium size One-Shot spools with leader line, usually 8,10 &12lb test. When your small leader spools that you carry in your vest become empty just re-spool them at home with your bulk leader. You'll save a lot of wasted money that can be applied to that new rod or reel that you've been eyeing up.

Pier Fishing

2006-07-17T02:14:00.000-07:00

By Joshua
There are many advantages and disadvantages to pier fishing. If you do not have a boat, pier fishing is the next best alternative. Some of the advantages that you have while fishing from a pier is :

The height advantage, you can target fish easily when you can see them
Bait is normally very plentiful around bridges and piers, so you have the bait right under you.
You save a tremendous amount of money on gas, especially today, with the gas prices like they are.
Pier fishing is overall more efficient for the pocket book.
Catching great game fish is a very common thing because where there is bait; there is always game fish of some kind around.

If you are trying to target certain species of fish from a pier, there are some things that you will need to know. Such as, the understanding of that specific species, how they feed, when they feed, what type of structure they are housing themselves in and the specific fishing tactics. For example, if you are going to fish for Mangrove Snapper, you do not want to fish the non structural sandy part of the pier. First, you should ask the people around you because believe it of not this is one of the most efficient ways to learn about the different areas to fish. If there are bait house employees ask them, they are usually very helpful. Now you want to try and find structure because snapper are structure loving fish! Usually where there is structure there is bait, so you should figure out what they are eating and the best way to do this is match the hatch. Therefore, in other words what type of bait that is plentiful in your area because this is most likely what the fish are feeding on. Now that you have location and bait figured out the only thing that you need now is the rig and technique. Following these steps for each of the different species will improve you odds for catching fish from a pier. To learn more about different techniques be sure to visit Pier Fishing Guide. You do have to become a little more creative when fishing from a pier because you are not going to the fish you have to get there attention and get them to come to you. There also disadvantages when fishing from a pier some of the disadvantages are:

You have to be extremely patient, because you have to draw the fish to you.
Boater sometimes has the tendency to spoil things by rudely going through your fishing lines in search for bait.
Landing large game fish can be a tad bit tricky if a novice pier fisherman, you must learn to rope gaff your fish or use a drop net.
You must learn to maneuver around pilings when you do get a good fish

As you can see there are many advantages and disadvantages to pier fishing with that being said all fishing is fun you just have to learn and be creative in order to be successful.

A Guide to Modern Rigging

2006-07-14T21:00:00.000-07:00

By Russ "Bassdozer" Comeau

How goes it? It's Bassdozer here. You know what I am thinking? Maybe this is a good time to review a number of basic rigging options that are used nowadays with soft baits. Nothing fancy, just bass rigs you basically make with a bait, a sinker, and a hook. So here goes.

1) Weightless Rig. The purest form of rigging, and most deadly with the Senko. No sinker is used and the hook can be tied directly to the main line. Optionally, tie the hook to a 12" to 24" inch leader tied to a free-turning swivel that dissipates the line twist which often occurs with unweighted soft baits.

2) Unpegged Texas Rig. A conical sinker is allowed to slide freely on the main line, with the hook tied directly to the main line. Optionally use a bead. The sinker will jackhammer constantly against the bead and make a tiny clicking noise that can attract fish at times.

One difficulty is an unpegged sinker can slide far up the line on the cast, making for inaccurate casts and imprecise presentations. An unpegged sinker can also slide far down the line and get your rig stuck in snaggy cover. For more control over an unpegged sinker, you can contain it on a short 12 to 24" leader tied to a swivel. This gives you the desirable unpegged lure movement (and bead-clicking option) while at the same time, the short leader gives you better control over the cast and presentation.

3) Pegged Texas Rig. Pocket a few toothpicks the next time you pay the check at the diner. Then jam one in the butt of a bullet weight and break it off. Keep in mind, don't jam it in so tightly that you risk weakening the line. Slide it down the line, and the toothpick will hold the weight securely against the nose of a soft bait used in heavy cover. The weight and bait will act like one unit that slips through weeds and resists snagging in cover.

4) Florida Rig. An advancement over the toothpick-pegging method, Florida rig sinkers are molded around a thin Teflon tube, and a corkscrew wire that screws in to the nose of a soft bait. Slip the sinker on the main line, tie the hook directly to the main line, and screw it into the bait. This provides the ultimate in weedless and snagless presentation for big bass in heavy cover.

5) Mojo Rig. Mojo sinkers are long, thin, and shaped like pencil leads. They're part of a complete system which includes rubber pegs that thread through the Mojo weight to peg it from 12" to 24" inches above the bait. The rubber strand cushions the line from any potential damage that can occur with wooden toothpicks or crimping splitshots on the line.

The thin Mojo sinker will slink through weeds better than most other weight types. Mojo rigs also work for vertical fishing in deep water where baits are suspended for bass lurking in or under the tops of flooded trees or brush.

www.bassdozer.com

9 Principles of War Applied to Flyfishing

2006-07-11T18:58:00.000-07:00

by Harry P. Davis, Author of Guerrilla Flyfishing

The nine Principles of War, as defined in the Army Field Manual FM-3 Military Operations:

Concentrate combat power at the decisive place and time.Put your mind on fishing when you are on the water. Worry and fret about problems at home or the office have no place here if you are going to have a productive day of angling. You may as well just splash around in the water and smack your rod against the rocks if you lose your concentration.This hour and this place are the decisive destination and time. All your planning, equipping and scheduling have come to naught, if you fail toconcentrate your angling power now.
Direct every military operation towards a clearly defined, decisive, and attainable objective.From the time you plan a trip to the time you pull out of the water, drive your thoughts toward the objective of hunting, deceiving and hooking the species you are after. Every species has habits, patterns and personalities...learn them.
Seize, retain, and exploit the initiative.Spot, imitate and cast with confidence.
Strike the enemy at a time, at a place, or in a manner for which he is unprepared.Sneak, hide and move slowly. Make all efforts to keep your presence unknown to your quarry. Your approach, casts and imitations should all be your best as to give the quarry a big surprise when he is hooked.
Allocate minimum essential combat power to secondary efforts.Turn off your cell phone.
Place the enemy in a position of disadvantage through the flexible application of combat power.Change methods, patterns and approaches often if your quarry is not taking what you re offering.
For every objective, ensure unity of effort under one responsible commander.Always remember, you are the angler, not some book, manufacturer or world class pro. Go with your intelligence and your instincts . . .this is fishing, not a Mars landing.
Never permit the enemy to acquire an unexpected advantage.Remember to check you lines, flies and hooks. Replace your lines whenneeded, make sure your flies are clean and realistic looking and sharpen your hook often with your whet rock. Don t hook yourself or fall out of the boat! Remember, cork is a choking hazard when taking those pictures of your trophy catch with your rod in your teeth.
Prepare clear, uncomplicated plans and clear, concise orders to ensure thorough understanding.Make sure all your fishing buddies and family know when, where and what of the trip. It fouls up great bonding moments when a buddy shows up in a wet suit and spear gun and the guys unload their canoes rigged for white perch.

Fishing Pontchartrain Under the Bridge

2006-07-09T19:39:00.000-07:00

Wanna do some fishing this weekend? Wanna catch a bunch of fish? But you don't wanna fish in the sun? Well, you solve that dilemma by launching into Lake Pontchartrain, heading over toward the Twin Spans on the South side, and anchoring under the bridge. That's the precise spot where you'll begin pulling in all kinds of fish--trout, reds, flounder, sheepshead, drum, croakers, and lots more (just like my fishing team and I did on Thursday).

But you know the trick to mastering such a magnificent catch? Live shrimp! Some might say you can use plastics. But I’m telling you first hand you gotta have live shrimp!

“I mean y’all saw the difference it made for us this morning,” Capt. Kenny Kreeger reiterated to the league of anglers who had gathered at the backdown ramp at Rigolets Marina. “Like when we first got to the south side of the Twin Spans, we used market shrimp. It’s all we could get! Oh, it was fresh as could be, but it was still market bait nonetheless. And if you noticed, we weren’t even getting a nibble!

“Yet, a couple of you guys anchored next to us were smokin’ them. And the only difference in what you were doing and what I was doing was ‘live shrimp.’”

Well, to make a long story short, Kenny and I and my cameraman Willie Wilson made a snap decision just seconds after watching the guys in the adjacent boat pull in trout after trout—yep! on live shrimp! The decision was make the 25 minute run to Chef Menteur to Chef Harbor Marina and get some live shrimp.

The entire picture changed under the bridge when we began throwing live shrimp on a Carolina rig…and catching beau coup fish as a result of it.

“See all the different species, Frank,” Kreeger pointed out. “That just goes to show you that with the right bait you can catch—in one spot—speckled trout, white trout, redfish, sheepshead, drum, flounder, croaker, gafftop, and, yes, even those pesky little hardheads. It was like they all had a craving for live shrimp.”

I feel that I should explain to all you “plastic devotees” why such emphasis on live bait. It’s not because live bait is an end-all guarantee for catching fish. It’s indicative, though, how important it is to have all your bases covered when you pull away from the dock. To do it right, you need your favorite plastics, a couple of pounds of fresh market bait, a bucket of live shrimp, maybe a livewell full of live Cocahoes, and maybe even a cast net on hand to collect your own shiners or pogies or baby mullets should the opportunity present itself.

“It’s like I say all the time,” Kreeger jumped in, “you gotta give ‘em what they want! And if you want to play it stupid and stubborn and stand rock solid on “they’ll take what I give them” attitude, you just might have to stop off at the fried chicken joint on the way home, if you know what I mean!”

So where has all the activity been in the lake for the past couple of weeks? Here’s the list:

--The Twin Spans on the south side;
--Between the eastbound and westbound roadbed on the bridges.
--The cross-over between the two bridges at mid-lake.
--The trestle on the south side at about the third firebreak.
--The area at South Shore that’s been staked with PVC pipe just off the point.

Focus on fishing these areas first. Then move around and scout out a few spots of your own.
Fish very very early in the morning, preferably right at sun-up. The fish seem to be more hungry at that time and it’s the optimum “cool time” of day for you and your fishing buddies.
And understand that what bites, when it bites, and how ferocious the bites are depend heavily on the tidal range. Ideally, 8/10’s of a foot is what you want; under 5/10’s is considered poor and over 1.8 feet is way too strong. In a nutshell just make sure you fish when the tide is moving and not slack. And if it’s slack when you get out there, you’ll just have to wait it out until it starts up again.

So till next week, be courteous and be safe out there!

Frank Davis - Frank's Website

Spring Baits and How to use them

2006-07-05T19:21:00.000-07:00

by Jim Reaneau

I wrote this article several years ago and thought it would be a good time to redo it. The spring is and exciting time of the year. Whether you are a beginner or expert you will be able to catch fish from the bank or a boat. The shallows will be alive with all species of fish. Most all fish start spawning at the same time. Crappie, bass, perch, and many others.

First I will start with the most popular the spinner bait. This bait is the easiest to fish as you throw it out and reel it back. This sounds easy, but sometimes this is all you have to do. This bait doesn t hang up as much as other baits. As long as you keep it moving it will slide over limbs and stumps. There are many sizes and colors to choose from. I like a three quarter ounce because I can slow roll it and it will stay down and not fall over. The lighter baits will rise quickly when retrieved quickly. This may not be bad as the stop and go retrieve is a good pattern. Colors are pretty important but I like chartreuse and white with gold and silver blades. I like willow leaf blades. This color will work well in muddy and clear water. Fish this around the grass and timber or parallel to the bank as this will be the best strike zone. I fish this on a medium heavy Falcon rod with a Shamino curado reel. When you get a strike set the hook hard and hold your rod up to get the fish coming towards you.

The lipless crank bait is the next easiest bait to fish. You can chunk it a country mile which we all do. But this is not a good ideal as with all that line out it will be hard to set the hook. Everyone thinks just because it has two treble hooks the fish will hook them selves this is not true. Bass can close their mouths over a bait and hold on till they break water and out the bait comes. This bait comes in many colors and sizes. Lake Fork is known for red baits. So red would be a good color. The fire tiger and lemon OB are good colors. Some days the fish want a half and some days the quarter ounce is the size. Try both sizes and let the fish tell you what they want. The way to fish bait is cast it out and start your retrieve soon as the bait hit s the water. Keep it moving just fast enough to tick the top of the grass or just off the bottom. If you get caught in the grass jerk the bait out and let it fall and sometimes this will trigger a strike. Some days the fast retrieve will work better than the slow retrieve. Remember when the fish hit s the bait set the hook quickly and firmly.

The Lizard is another popular bait. It is one of the fishes biggest enemies. Bass will attack this intruder on site. The salamander which is what the lizard looks like will invade the nest and eat the eggs. I like to fish the lizard on a light weight Carolina rig. I use 20 pound big game and a quarter ounce weight pegged about a foot up the line. Cast this around trees and parallel to the bank. The fish will attack this bait aggressively. Some times they will grab the bait and swim out of the nest and blow it out before you can set the hook. Their protective nature this time of year is to kill it or remove it from the nest. Colors can vary from the water clarity. I like pumpkin with a chartreuse tail, black with a blue tail, and watermelon. I use a 3/0 hook on this bait because of the length. This is a good bait to pitch around trees and brush. Weightless baits are a good choice as they will fish over the grass and slim that invades the shallow water in the spring. These baits come in different styles.

The New Tiki Bamboo stick is a great bait for dead sticking. Lake Fork Tackle Ring fries, flukes, and big lizards are other good baits for this style of fishing. They all will come through the grass and slim. You will need a wide gap hook in the 3/0 or 4/0 size. Don t use any weight or if you do use a one thirty second weight. Finish nails can be inserted into the body of these baits to give them weight. You don t want much as this will take away from their action. Cast the bait out and let it sit for as long as you can. Then sweep your rod up slowly or twitch it slightly. You don t want to over work the bait. I fish these baits on a medium heavy Falcon six six with fifteen pound line. When you get a strike let the fish have the bait for a two count then set the hook. This will cover only a few of the popular spring baits and I hope this will help you catch more fish.

Using Maps for Fishing Success

2006-07-02T17:57:00.000-07:00

by John Leech

Being able to find fish on a lake before you put the boat in the water is a great help to the start of a successful day on the water. Reading the bottom of the lake and finding the migration routes the fish will follow to and from the feeding grounds and where the feeding grounds are from a map is a huge key to success. This ensures time spent fishing will be in the more productive areas of the lake instead of casting blindly at some unproductive shoreline in the hope there may be a fish in the area that will bite.

A good contour map is worth its weight in gold if you have the knowledge to read it, and not worth the paper it's printed on if you can't. The lines represent the depth breaks. Each line shows changes in depth that graduate from shore to the deepest water in the lake. The value of the map is in the accuracy of the contour placements and changes. Most Government and geological survey maps are for the most part the most accurate. These agencies are a good source for maps as are any Aerospace contour map. Army Corps of Engineers is another good source. The tackle shop plastic maps are the most readily available but often lack true accuracy. These maps will get you in the right area and give you some good starting places; some even come with GPS reading of good fishing areas. The real key in catching fish is being in the area where the fish are. Good map reading can take you from one productive area in the lake to another just like it simply by looking on a map.

Finding the break or desired depth change on a map is the same as looking for it on the water. During the warm water seasons the fish will relate to a more gradual slope or break and during colder water seasons a sharper drop into deeper water will be their preferred choice. Once you've located the desired place on the map, finding the location on the water becomes the next challenging task. A GPS and a compass are needed tools and, for any structure fishing, a good depth finder is a must. Finding these places still requires time driving around on the water; good map studies just mean less wasted time. You can find the right areas with site and direction searches. A site and direction search starts with identifying two landmarks on the map and on the water. Take a bearing from one mark towards the other watching your depth finder. When you come to the desired depth throw a buoy marker. Marker buoys are a must to be able to picture what the area really looks like. Good map reading is one thing that separates the top anglers that win on a regular basis. By good map study, the areas of the lake that will be holding the most fish at a given seasonal period can be found days before ever seeing the water.

There are always changes to the bottom that are not on some maps and these places, if conditions are right, can be gold mines. Fewer people will know of these places and thus less pressure on the fish that live there. Other key pieces of structure and breaks to look for that are not on some maps are springs, wells, old house foundations and old pulp wood roads. Most of the newer reservoirs have maps showing all these details, but the older lake most of these details were not noted on maps before the lake was flooded. Sometimes fishermen will share good fishing areas on different bodies of water. Studying these areas and looking for similar areas can also increase the success of a fishing trip. I talked to a man at a Jiffy store on the way to a lake I was fishing miles away. He told me about a break in the river where a creek came into the channel. Sure enough that place was a great holding area but, after studying the map at the hotel, so were the next two creeks that entered on down river. Good patterns will reproduce themselves time and time again. Map study can just show you where.

Chum On The Run

2006-06-28T00:06:00.000-07:00

By: Dennis Dobson - Oregon Outdoors

While many savvy anglers consider October and November to be primetime for fall chinook on Oregon's north coast, those truly in the know realize they can double their fun by chasing chinook and chum on the run at the same time.

FLY ROD FUN - In the Kilchis' justly famous Second Bridge Hole a very busy angler fights his first chum salmon on a fly rod. Known as great fighters, regardless of the gear or technique used to hook them, anglers commonly prefer to catch them, as here, on 8, 9 and 10-weight fly rods.

Chum salmon, also known as 'dog salmon' begin filtering into Tillamook Bay's Kilchis River with the first heavy rains of autumn. Called dog salmon both for the size of their teeth and because Alaskan's have used their oil-rich meat to feed sled dogs for centuries, chum are both overshadowed by their larger cousins, chinook, and under-appreciated by the general fishing public. Averaging just fifteen pounds, with the occasional twenty-pounder considered a trophy , once experienced chum often hold a place in the hearts of true-blue salmon anglers right next to chinook. Tremendous fighters, chum are known, and appreciated, for their long, strong runs, aerial acrobatics, tail walking and a never-say-die attitude.

Beginning the second or third week of October the Kilchis will be full of a mixed bag of both chum and chinook salmon. One of the fall salmon season's great joys is drifting the Kilchis and never knowing which fish, a chum or a chinook, will be the next to take your bait.

Incredibly aggressive and running in packs or schools, chum will attack almost literally anything they see. From a simple corky and yarn drift fished in front of them to large plugs and back-bounced salmon eggs or sand shrimp presented from a slowly back-rowed drift-boat, it's pretty much certain that if they can see it, they'll hit it.

As a professional guide working the Kilchis every Autumn my favorite presentation is fly fishing. Using a ten, eleven or twelve-weight fly rod, a fast-sink tip line and large, gaudy flies, it's not uncommon to play a dozen or more chum every day. And most days will include a few chinook taken on the same gear as well.

The standard fly fishing set up and presentation is very simple. Using either a very fast sink tip line or crimping a small split-shot or two onto a standard fly line just where it is tied to the leader, roll cast or sling the line into the top of a runor drift. As the line drifts downstream take in the slack. Once the line swings below you either play the slack back out slowly, letting the fly bump along at or near the bottom, or simply let it hang in the current. Most of the time, whether it's a chum or a chinook, the bite will come as the fly hangs or swings in the current downstream from the angler. The presentation is just that simple. Fly and leader selection is even simpler.

GREAT FIGHTERS - Aggressive biters justly famous for not being choosy about what technique is used to hook them, this very nice 18-pound chum salmon buck fell victim to the seductive wiggle of a back-trolled anchovy-wrapped size K-14 Kwik-Fish.

The best leader, especially bearing in mind that chum are your basic non-selective biters and that the chances of a chinook hitting your offering are almost as great as a chum taking it, is four to six feet of either thirty or forty pound test monofilament line. That's it. No fancy tapered leaders, no need for long nine to twelve foot leaders that tangle on every cast, just a simple piece of mono strong enough to hold the fish.

Probably the most common fly used on the Kilchis for both chinook and chum is a simple one-inch piece of chartreuse yarn. Tie a 2/0, 3/0 or 4/0 hook to the leader with a guide's knot - also known as an egg loop - open the loop and place the yarn inside the loop. Pass the yarn through the loop a second time and cinch the loop back down against the hook. This is both simple and effective. By passing the yarn through the loop twice it won't come loose when casting or while fighting a fish and lies flat against the hook shank looking and acting very natural while drifting.

Although most years it is not a requirement, I always use barbless hooks. The chum are a protected species and while we can target them for catch and release from mid-September through mid-November, we can't keep any. Barbless hooks just make it easier to release the fish unharmed. And, as long as you keep a tight line while fighting that chinook that took you by surprise -two of which you can keep daily - you won't lose any more fish than you would with barbed hooks.

Another of my favorite flies for the Kilchis is called a "Great Big Ugly Green Thing". Also called a bunny fly, it is simply a several inch long piece of chartreuse bunny fur tightly wrapped and tied onto a long-shank 2/0 or 3/0 hook. Hot pink, dark orange, bright red and black are also among my favorite colors. Basically though, just about any large brightly colored fly will take both chinook and chum.

Product Reviews: Crankbaits

2006-06-26T21:57:00.000-07:00

by Russ Bassdozer

Bandit Lures Series 100, 200 and 300 Crankbaits

Series 100. 2". 1/4 oz. Series 200. 2". 1/4 oz. Series 300. 2". 3/8 oz.

I don't believe Bandit Lures have been on the market for too many years, at least not that I am aware. In the last few years, they've become popular because they catch fish and are affordable.

Series 100 (top in photo) runs 2-5 feet deep.
Series200 (middle) runs 4-8 feet deep.
Series 300 (bottom) runs 8-12 feet deep.

Bandits are all fast risers. When the retrieve is paused, they begin to rise tail first, making them good choices for pulling through wood and weeds. Just pause to let them float out and over snaggy areas, then begin the retrieve again. Don't be surprised to get hit on the rise, or even when the crankbait pops to the surface and floats on top, it will still attract strikes.

Bassdozer Shallow, Medium, Deep and Super Deep Crankbaits

Shallow. 2". 5/16 oz. Medium. 2". 3/8 oz. Deep. 2-3/4". 1/2 oz. Super Deep. 3". 7/8 oz.

With four models, there's a Bassdozer crankbait to cover most any type of cranking situation you may encounter.

The four sizes effectively cover the entire water column from shallow to medium to deep to super deep:

The Shallow Diver (top in photo) runs 1-4 ft deep. This square-lipped shallow runner works best with a slow to medium retrieve. It has a light rattle. If desired, upsize the rear hook to a #4, which does not affect the action.

The Medium (second from top) dives 5-8 feet, which is the crankbait depth range that is useful most of the time. It has a high-pitched rattle.

The Bassdozer Deep Diver (third from top) can reach 9-12 feet deep and has the loudest rattles of the four models.

The Super Deep Diver (bottom) is one of only a few crankbaits that can get super deep into the 13 to 15 foot range. It has a little less chatter, more like a drum beat to its rattle.

For Bass Fishing Success: Be the Bass

2006-06-23T00:08:00.000-07:00

by Charles Hammer

If what you want from your bass fishing is a nice day spent on the lake, then more power to you. Bass fishing for the unadulterated relaxation of it is one of the best and purest reasons to drop a line; however, if you're angling day isn't complete until you've caught and released a boatload or you're looking to haul in a few trophies then you are going to need a more head on approach. You are going to need to know your enemy and plan your assault. Be the bass.

Before deciding what direction to turn your boat for the day, consider the day itself. If you were a big, aggressive but somewhat lazy bass, where would you be in the early morning hours when the deep water might be cold and the day has just begun? Why in the shallows, sitting in the cover of the undergrowth watching the lake come to life. Same is true of the evening as the day winds down and the water starts to cool off. During these times, quietly reconnoiter the tall grass, the fallen logs, the underbelly of the lake world. Many bass may be starting and ending their days here, visible to the naked eye.

As the sun traverses the sky, the fish will start to migrate to and from deeper water; you can often catch them in transit. Cast sinkers that drift into the edges of the grassy interface. Be patient, don't bob the bait. This approach can be mighty fruitful on overcast days when the bass haven't quite decided to go deep.

Now that you're thinking like a fish, consider your bait. Lots of bass fishing is done with big bait because bass are fierce fighting fish and big bait just seems the way to go. Truth be told, bass are hungry and hostile. They will strike on a large variety of lures. Think smaller lures, spinners and don't forget the lowly plastic worm. Properly cast brightly colored worms are the number one bait for a reason. They catch bass. Shallow water is a good place to try a float worm. Straight worms get lots of bites in undergrowth.

Once you have knocked down few ways to think like a bass, it's important to write your discoveries down. Keep a detailed written record of the most productive and, unfortunately, the least productive ways you have developed for bass fishing. Make a log book part of your bass fishing equipment. Note the day and date of each excursion, the weather, the vegetation, the distance from the bank, the bait used. When you pull in that trophy, mark down the time; when you pull in that minnow, mark down the time. No detail is too small when developing your bass book.

Bass are strong fish who put up a good fight; that's the reason most bass fishers go after them. Study them and their habits and document your findings. You will find that your effort will ultimately pay off with larger and more consistent catches. After all, in order to land them you have to understand them.

About the Author
If you want to catch more bass you need to come over to AllAboutBassFishing.com. We provide many tips, tactics, articles and more to help with your next bass fishing adventure. Whether you fish for largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, peacock bass, or any other type of bass we can help you.

Finesse Fishing

2006-06-14T19:08:00.000-07:00

by Rick La Point

Imagine this, you feel the subtle tap on your most sensitive spinning rod with 6 pound test mono. Then, WHAM! You set the hook with the swiftness of a lion pouncing on his prey. The medium action rod is bent in a full circle, just enough give for the lightest of lines but enough backbone to slam the light wire hook in the steel jaws of a lunker bass. The drag starts singing as you feel the head shaking of a huge bass on the other end of what seems like a thread separating you from your respected quarry. You quickly release the anti reverse to manually fight your prospective catch, relying on skill and expertise to back reel when your mama hawg jaw makes those last minute runs at the boat. Then, PANIC, you feel the telltale sign that your line is hung around a limb you confidently release all pressure.

Like a miracle from God your quarry swims free, you gingerly finish the battle knowing your line has some damage from the unsuspected limb. Slowly bending over the gunnel, you grab her with your hand, then unsure you reach with the other lifting that beautiful fish out of the water. Admiring her for a few seconds you gently ease her back watching her slowly swim back to her deep-water lair.

That's what finesse fishing is all about! You are literally one on one with the bass. I like to call it feel fishing. With a sensitive rod and a soft touch you can detect those subtle bites that most fail to detect. My favorite finesse fishing rod is a custom built rod by Grandt Rods. Jim Grandt makes his own blanks with a 70 million modulus graphite material which are the finest and most sensitive, lifetime warranty, rods on the market. This rod paired with a ultra smooth Shimano Sedona 2000 makes a deadly combo.

Fishing with a instrument like this (retail combo $250) is definitely worth the money. Your fishing line is the most important link between you and the fish. Using a good quality limp monofilament is extremely important for finesse fishing. You need your line to lay down with ease and not twist. Properly spooling your line on your spinning reel is crucial making sure the line comes off the spool the same way it goes on the reel. Spooling your reel this way will help you some of the headaches that frustrate anglers. I use Excel Mono 6# test or 8# test in the green color, which works well in the clear waters of Table Rock Lake. Using green line makes you rely more on your sense of touch since it is hard to see against the clear water.

Your selection of lures can vary, from small worms, French fry?s, bass jigs to 1/4oz. jigging spoons. You can use most anything for finesse style fishing. Probably the heaviest finesse bait I use is a 1/4oz. spider jig. The lightest I trust in is a weightless French fry. Both can be awesome when used in certain situations. Precise presentation of your lure is a must and casting these light lures takes a lot of practice. Most of my finesse fishing is down around boat docks or brush piles. Occasionally I fish deep cedar trees, with a slider rig and a 4-inch finesse worm. Sharp hooks and a good hook set is a key. If the bass gets you down in the thick of things the only thing you can do is give the fish line and pray. Many times the fish will swim out of the tree or dock. Other times 'snap' and she?s gone.

Finesse fishing is a style of fishing more than a type. Slow and deliberate concentration a key, the touch a must. A good finesse angler is hard to fish behind unless you watch the anglers every move. Throw between casts, watch his presentation and vary your presentation slightly. That makes the difference between catching a bass behind him or going fishless. The best way to learn is to fish with a finesse style fisherman. Watch the anglers every move and observe his techniques. Any Angler can learn from another, even the best can learn from a novice. A particular instance comes to mind, although not while finesse fishing, but while fishing Zara Spooks in a Mid-West Bass Regional tournament at Lake of the Ozarks. I was on some good bass, fishing a spook. I told my amateur partner to rig up a spook. We arrived at my honey hole, I threw the spook out methodically walking the dog, not missing a beat.

I made about 5 casts before my amateur partner reared back and let go, causing a huge backlash in his reel. I ask him if he needed help he said no. After about what seemed like a minute he jerked the spook inadvertently, then WHAM a huge bass swirled at his spook, he jerked the spook back to the boat in one motion. Thinking it was just a fluke I continued fishing. The very next cast, he got another backlash though this time not so bad. He pulled it out and the instant he moved the spook another bass inhaled it this time. Just a little shy of being a keeper I knew it wasn?t a fluke this time.

My next cast I let it sit there for what seemed like 30 seconds then before I moved it a good keeper inhaled it. I went on to win the 2-day tournament thanks to my partner's backlash. Although he never fished a spook before this tournament, my partner taught me a great new way to present this lure.

There are a couple of different techniques I use while finesse fishing. The slow crawl method, the jiggle method, (my favorite) and the dead stick method. All have their niches and times they work best.

Remember finesse fishing is not a type of fishing, but a style of fishing.

Choosing A Graphite Freshwater Fishing Rod

2006-06-13T01:18:00.000-07:00

Purchasing a rod can be one of the most difficult parts of getting started in fishing. There are a dizzying array of options available, all claiming to be superior to the rods next to them. Before you jump into a decision you will regret, it always pays to educate yourself on just what it is you need to, and therefore should, acquire.

The first step in acquiring a fishing rod is to purchase a blank. This refers to the rod proper, which is a shaft of varying materials on which you mount a reel and some line. Shafts can be purchased in three different materials: graphite, fiberglass, and bamboo. Bamboo rods are generally used for fly fishing and can be quite expensive. Fiberglass rods are generally for beginner use, and are the type you find at your local Wal-Mart or other department type stores. Graphite is the material of choice for serious fisherman, and can be found many places online, or at your local sporting goods stores. For this article, we will concentrate on graphite rods.

Fishing rods come in varying strengths and will be measured in terms of modulus. Modulus refers to the density of the weave of the material from which the rod blank is fashioned. Graphite rods generally come with a modulus between 33 million and 60 million. The higher the modulus, the stiffer the rod will be. The higher modulus rods will also be lighter, faster, and more sensitive. As a trade-off however, high modulus rods are more brittle than lower modulus fishing rods.

Sensitivity is also an important factor when choosing a rod blank. As a general rule, the deeper the water that you are fishing in, the higher sensitivity you will want, so that you can feel the more subtle bites. The last thing you want is to have to go home and tell the story about the one that got away!

One factor that affects sensitivity of your rod, besides material of the shaft, is the handle construction. Usually the handles are made from cork or foam. You should ensure that the handle feels comfortable in your hand and that it is not too soft, otherwise you may not be able to feel those aforementioned subtle bites. Also, if you are fishing with any type of artificial bait, it is crucial to be able to feel the movement of the bait through the rod to ensure that you are enticing the fish in the proper manner.

Bass Fishing Facts You Need to Know

2006-06-11T19:43:00.000-07:00

by Dave Kessler

Some people may not be aware of what bass fishing is. Bass fishing has an interesting story. It begun in the late 18th century and it still continues to develop until today. More and more people have been hooked up with bass fishing. It is in fact one of the most popular hobbies of many people and in most countries. More and more countries have been adopting bass fishing.

It had probably in the beginning practiced in search for food from among the people in the south of the United States. From that day onwards, it has started getting numerous audiences of all ages and nations. Today, several countries such as Australia, Cuba, South Africa, United States and most citizens from Europe participate in this kind of event.

The year 1768 or 1770 was the birth of bass fishing sports. Onesimus Ustonson was the one who introduced his first multiplying reels to the fishing gurus and lovers of bass fishing. From then on, it was developed into bait caster.

William Shakespeare Jr. have materialized the construction of a level wind device and secured its patent on 1897.

Then after, the William J. Jamison Co introduced the excessively ornamented Shannon Twin Spinner in 1915 and was enhanced to create today's spinner baits.

In the year 1932, President Franklin D. Roosevelt has instituted the formation of Tennessee Valley Authority and has encouraged the construction and building of several dams. These dams were later used for culturing different varieties of bass fishes. If these dams were not built, the people would not have the place to go for bass fishing.

Five years later, the famous DuPont Company filed copyright for nylon fishing net, and this was later urbanized into nylon monofilament fishing line.
The year 1992 is one of the most glorious events in the history of bass fishing. Larry Nixon, the famous fisherman in the history of bass fishing won $1 M total earnings for this sport on this year.

A lot of fish species that are being caught in the bass fishing events include the following:

Micropterus punctatus - Kentucky Bass

Micropterus dolomieui - Smallmouth bass

Micropterus salmoides (Lacepede) - Largemouth Bass

The other known classes of Micropterus are also wedged but in those times, one that remains most accepted is the Largemouth bass. On the other hand, it should be emphasized that some of the Australian Bass are different from the above North American Bass variants even though most share comparable features.

Possibly, the most vigorous success of Bass Fishing was in the 1950s. The popularity of the game during this age is the springboard to the development of modern fishing equipments from bass boats, rods, lines, lures and various fishing gears.

The contribution of bass fishing industry to the US economy records $50 to $70 Billion and the number continues to grow. Statistics show that the audience base of this sport is increasing and that more and more people are getting interested in it compared to tennis and golf.

Electronic gears during that time were also integrated and incorporated among the host of equipments bass fishers which were used at that same time. Reels of different types, which function in carrying and hoisting, were also created.

Now that you have a little understanding about bass fishing, you can already start your own bass fishing in your place. It is important to know the certain facts about bass fishing so that you will fully understand how it started.

In addition, you must know how to build up a victorious bass fishing pattern. Having a larger bass will really help you in your fishing trip.

Some may also go bass fishing at night if they want to so it is good that you be taught professional night bass fishing techniques.

Besides, the others may also be benefited by learning the professional winter bass fishing techniques for those who have experienced the four seasons.

These are only some of the many styles and tips on how to progress and enhance your bass fishing strategy. But if you do not have any plan at all, you may really get dissatisfied from time to time. But, it is optional that you first learn and read adequate information and guides about bass fishing.

About the Author
If you would like more information on fishing please visit http://www.allfishworld.com

The Smart Fisherman's Bass Fishing Techniques

2006-06-10T20:30:00.000-07:00

by Dave Kessler

Every smart fisherman has his own fishing techniques that allow him to catch the fish he has goaled to. Like in bass fishing or fishing in fresh waters, the fisherman will always have to implore bass fishing techniques suitable for the kind of waters he is fishing.

The first consideration in developing bass fishing techniques that can bring you your dream catch is to choose the shore you are to start out.

Also you have to be very keen with the weather. Bass fishing is most productive in the great lakes and like the ocean, these great lakes are also very dangerous if bad weathers occur.

That is why it is most ideal to do bass fishing during summer especially if the place you choose to have your bass fishing adventure is a big lake like the Lake Erie.

The other thing to consider in bass fishing is whether you goal to fish in the deep called off-shore fishing or just in the shoreline.

When you are fishing in the deep, make sure that your boat is fully equipped with the safety devices and must know the regulations imposed by your host state regarding bass fishing in their respective area of responsibilities.

Some fishermen use the trolling techniques in the deep sea fishing or off-shore fishing to catch more fish.

While if you opt to do bass fishing in the shorelines, you only need small boats and minor fishing gadgets.

Also, it is an experience that to be more productive in bass fishing in the shore, one technique is to fish during night time.

You may also watch or look at the waters if it is very clear. Most probably you can not make a good catch when the water is very clear. Bass fishes prefer discolored waters. Smallmouth bass fishes and many other species do not stay in clear waters.

The contour of the underwater terrain is also a thing to consider in bass fishing. You may consult an expert in the terrain of the lake you are fishing and he will guide you to the best place to fish.

Of course your choice of fishing gadgets will spell much of your success in bass fishing. Choose the most durable hooks that will hold firm when opportunity is given.

The choice of baits is also crucial. There are plastic baits that do but natural baits such as worms and flies make better. Remember always that the bigger the bait, the probability of catching the big fish is better that having small baits.

During summer, one bass fishing technique is choosing to fish along Long Point Bay at Lake Erie because during this time, the bass fishes especially the smallmouth bass fishes are swimming their way here back to the main lake after their spawning period. If you are an amateur in bass fishing, the best thing to do is to fish with a companion who is an expert in the field not only in fishing but also an expert in the flora and fauna of the river you are cruising or fishing of.

As a beginner, you may opt to fish only in the shorelines of the lake or you may try fishing in the smaller lakes. Smaller lakes offer also varieties of bass fishes including the smallmouth bass and the white bass.

Bass fishing in the rivers is also fruitful to beginners. Catch that catfish and its fun. There are rivers with runs and pools and in many cases fish are stacked up in these areas where catching them is as easy as eating nuts.

Definitely your summer fishing will be very educational and full of fun. Plan your summer bass fishing well by developing and adopting bass fishing techniques suitable to the waters you aim to explore and the fish you wish to catch.

Bass fishing techniques vary from one situation with another. The few ideas presented to you here may help you in deciding and planning your next bass fishing adventure.
Lastly, please bear in mind that safety is the must be technique to adopt in any endeavor.

Always check your gadgets for any defect and if you will use a boat, it has to be a licensed one.
If you would like more information on fishing please visit http://www.allfishworld.com

About the Author
If you would like more information on fishing please visit http://www.allfishworld.com

Top 20 Bass Fishing Tips

2006-06-10T20:03:00.000-07:00

by Joan Yankowitz

Before heading out to catch some bass, take a look at these 20 important bass fishing tips.

Fish slowly, providing better action and enabling the fish to have ample eye contact.
When the bite seems to slow down, you should slow also down. Work methodically until you find the fish.
Always be aware of your weather forecast. Wind, storms, and lightening kill. Safety comes first.
If wet feet bother you on rainy days, try a pair of GORE-TEX sox. They are waterproof and can be worn in any shoe or boot.
Be alert and watchful. Fish give away their presence 90% of the time through baitfish fleeing; surface action; or vegetation movement.
Always look in a bass' mouth before releasing it. Most of the time, when fighting a lure in his jaw, a bass will try to throw up whatever is in his stomach. You may be able to determine what prey the fish are actively feeding on and choose a lure/presentation to duplicate it.
Set the hook on a fish by feel rather than by sight.
Regularly check your knot for weakness and hook for sharpness.
Bass are not that smart. A swivel does not affect the action of a lure in a negative way and fish don't really care about it. Use one anytime there is the potential for line twist.
If you are using small hooks, don't jerk hard on the hookset; just tighten up the slack with the rod and reel faster.
Check your line just above the lure frequently when fishing crankbaits around rocks, gravel, stumps, and other hard obstructions. They can quickly fray your line.
Bass normally respond best to an erratic retrieve and a lot of motion. Keep that lure in front of the fish as long as you can.
Hold your rod tip down and to the side for better feel, keeping the angle between rod and line at around 90 degrees.
Black buzz baits seem to produce more strikes than bright colors.
Since the bass's metabolism is high, use large crankbaits in warm and hot weather. Switch to smaller baits when the water is cooler.
Use a wire cross-locking snap when fishing crank plugs. It allows you to change lures quickly and enables the bait to vibrate more freely.
If you notice feeding fish and baitfish movement, the predators are actively after the prey. Switch to a fast moving crankbait and burn it through the area of activity.
Protect your eyes with a good pair of plastic polarized sunglasses. They will protect you from the sun's rays and also provide a shield against a snagged slip sinker or lure flying back when pulled loose.
Keep baits fresh and airtight with a food vacuum sealer. You can also store hooks and other terminal tackle this way.
Store small quantities of hooks with a few grains of rice and they will never rust.

Using these tips will help you increase your bass catch!

About the Author
Joan Yankowitz publishes consumer and business Kwik eGuides. Instantly download her Bass Fishing 101: How to Catch the Next Big One Kwik eGuide.